Monday 8 December 2014

Buckskin Gulch & Paria Canyon


The Start
So they say this is a 3 to 6 day adventure. All depending on conditions. Aka, the water levels. So being the responsible adventurer, called the Ranger while still back in aus. Said they'd had record rain. But levels coming down, not good. Equals; cold and slow. And more wet suit attire. And most importantly, at one point there's a rock jam 3/4 way down the slot. Low water you climbs under said jam. High means over the top. And rope to get down. Took string to lower back pack and scramble doyen myself. Ended up going under. Glad didn't take a rope.
The big Rock Jam. Not such a challenge

High tailed it out of Vegas early morning. With all the faffing about, stopping off to get requisite permit and poop bags, instructions from Ranger etc. Only arrived at Vermillion cliffs motel, my overnighter, late. Not much else in Vermilion cliffs except the motel. But great food, fantastic burger and bigger range of beers than Vegas. Run by adventurers, so must
Good Arizona Lager 
be good. 


Met Liegh, from Wagga Wagga, would you believe. More knowledgeable than anyone I'd met. 'The best canyon hike in the US, the world even'. .. Big call. She was not alone on this point. Suppose that's why after all the research chose this one.  

  Logistics are; leave car at the end of the trail; Lees ferry where Paria river meets the Colorado. This is where the rafters start for the Grand canyon river rafting. Reminded me of Vic falls.  For me it was a 7am rendezvous and the 1:45 hr. shuttle with Betty, to the start. for a fee of course. I had to chuckle, she had lots of advice for this hike. Being seriously over weight and with walking stick. Doubt she'd ever done this.



The entrance to the Buckskin Gulch
Disposed of Betty and charged off with much gusto. Happiness abounded. With a 20k long Gulch (supposedly the longest in the world). there are no real camping spots in the Gulch and it could be suicide if it rained. This was much, much narrower than the Narrows. It was amazing how high up the rock walls wooded debris had lodged itself,  at some points maybe 10 metres up. Even more amazing was the way the muddy waters had sculpted sides of the canyon walls, remarkable. First mistake, didn't bring a decent camera. The mobile just hadn't done it justice, both in terms of capturing the textured walls and the colours created by the sunlight stealing through the top of the canyon.



























And to the first mud pool. So donned on Neoprene type socks and leggings. And ventured forth. As I didn't have those you beaut Canyon shoes like in the Narrows, had bought some sandals as s poor substitute. Theory bring they would at least detain and be light to walk in. First test passed.   Just wet muddy for the rest of the day. 

This was fun. Like racing through a maze for big kids. Just went on and on. Deeper n higher walls. More water pools, just not as bad as everyone had made out. So cussed them. That meant an extra 2kg on my back for three days. 
Majestic Walls 

In fact, pack weighted 15.6kg, that was with 3.5 liters and 800 g of vino (considered essential).  With 4 days of food. Not to bad. 


The rock jam proved to be a non event. All a bit disappointing really. It did mean good progress was made. 
Finally arriving at the confluence at about 3. All up 26k. 
Things changed now. With the Paria flowing it was more like the Narrows. Constant river walking. The sandals didn't perform well at this. Getting bloody pebbles under your feet. Not that I was changing. That would have meant no dry shoes in camp. Now that would be very problematic. 
Pressed on hoping to get to 'big spring' where there was a camp site opposite the fresh water source. Didn't make it. By 5 and light fading. Came across a pretty decent looking spot. Little high up. It off the wind. And checked what was on the menu. Spaghetti pesto it was. Not before sundowners. And tucked into that wine. Well earned I thought. So much so smashed the lot. Less weight for tomorrow. 

As with the Narrows didn't bother with the tarp. Once again took forever to decamp. 

The second day, the canyon started to open up. Criss-crossed it constantly. Towering canyon walls. Was brilliant. By this stage was crossing that river with gazelle like grace. Well I thought so. 

Rather than talking to myself or out shooting waiting for the echo and other dump things, took to looking for features in the rock. A Buddha, saw Dory of Nemo fame, much hilarity. 
Dory -NO?
My Butt

























Took a side trip up Wrather canyon up to Wrather Arch. nearly missed the canyon entrance. Hidden in shrubbery. More natural wonders and box ticked.
Wrather Arch - Great side trip. 

And by dusk found accommodation. Just as tucking in,  started to rain. So up goes the tarp. Just in time.

Executed decamping much better and was on the veritable Road by 7am. Wanting to get to Lees ferry by midday. 
The canyon opens up wide, so longer river side walking less in the water. 
Good progress was made and arrived at lees ferry by lunch.  Which was good. I see the predicted cold front coming in. Headed back to Vermillion cliffs for another great burger. 
This was an outstanding little adventure.


Morning Sun 


The Route

The Start
So they say this is a 3 to 6 day adventure. All depending on conditions. Aka, the water levels. So being the responsible adventurer, called the Ranger while still back in aus. Said they'd had record rain. But levels coming down, not good. Equals; cold and slow. And more wet suit attire. And most importantly, at one point there's a rock jam 3/4 way down the slot. Low water you climbs under said jam. High means over the top. And rope to get down. Took string to lower back pack and scramble doyen myself. Ended up going under. Glad didn't take a rope.
The big Rock Jam. Not such a challenge

High tailed it out of Vegas early morning. With all the faffing about, stopping off to get requisite permit and poop bags, instructions from Ranger etc. Only arrived at Vermillion cliffs motel, my overnighter, late. Not much else in Vermilion cliffs except the motel. But great food, fantastic burger and bigger range of beers than Vegas. Run by adventurers, so must
Good Arizona Lager 
be good. 

Met Liegh, from Wagga Wagga, would you believe. More knowledgeable than anyone I'd met. 'The best canyon hike in the US, the world even'. .. Big call. She was not alone on this point. Suppose that's why after all the research chose this one.  

  Logistics are; leave car at the end of the trail; Lees ferry where Paria river meets the Colorado. This is where the rafters start for the Grand canyon river rafting. Reminded me of Vic falls.  For me it was a 7am rendezvous and the 1:45 hr. shuttle with Betty, to the start. for a fee of course. I had to chuckle, she had lots of advice for this hike. Being seriously over weight and with walking stick. Doubt she'd ever done this.



The entrance to the Buckskin Gulch
Disposed of Betty and charged off with much gusto. Happiness abounded. With a 20k long Gulch (supposedly the longest in the world). there are no real camping spots in the Gulch and it could be suicide if it rained. This was much, much narrower than the Narrows. It was amazing how high up the rock walls wooded debris had lodged itself,  at some points maybe 10 metres up. Even more amazing was the way the muddy waters had sculpted sides of the canyon walls, remarkable. First mistake, didn't bring a decent camera. The mobile just hadn't done it justice, both in terms of capturing the textured walls and the colours created by the sunlight stealing through the top of the canyon.



























And to the first mud pool. So donned on Neoprene type socks and leggings. And ventured forth. As I didn't have those you beaut Canyon shoes like in the Narrows, had bought some sandals as s poor substitute. Theory bring they would at least detain and be light to walk in. First test passed.   Just wet muddy for the rest of the day. 

This was fun. Like racing through a maze for big kids. Just went on and on. Deeper n higher walls. More water pools, just not as bad as everyone had made out. So cussed them. That meant an extra 2kg on my back for three days. 
Majestic Walls 

In fact, pack weighted 15.6kg, that was with 3.5 liters and 800 g of vino (considered essential).  With 4 days of food. Not to bad. 


The rock jam proved to be a non event. All a bit disappointing really. It did mean good progress was made. 
Finally arriving at the confluence at about 3. All up 26k. 
Things changed now. With the Paria flowing it was more like the Narrows. Constant river walking. The sandals didn't perform well at this. Getting bloody pebbles under your feet. Not that I was changing. That would have meant no dry shoes in camp. Now that would be very problematic. 
Pressed on hoping to get to 'big spring' where there was a camp site opposite the fresh water source. Didn't make it. By 5 and light fading. Came across a pretty decent looking spot. Little high up. It off the wind. And checked what was on the menu. Spaghetti pesto it was. Not before sundowners. And tucked into that wine. Well earned I thought. So much so smashed the lot. Less weight for tomorrow. 

As with the Narrows didn't bother with the tarp. Once again took forever to decamp. 

The second day, the canyon started to open up. Criss-crossed it constantly. Towering canyon walls. Was brilliant. By this stage was crossing that river with gazelle like grace. Well I thought so. 

Rather than talking to myself or out shooting waiting for the echo and other dump things, took to looking for features in the rock. A Buddha, saw Dory of Nemo fame, much hilarity. 
Dory -NO?
My Butt

























Took a side trip up Wrather canyon up to Wrather Arch. nearly missed the canyon entrance. Hidden in shrubbery. More natural wonders and box ticked.
Wrather Arch - Great side trip. 

And by dusk found accommodation. Just as tucking in,  started to rain. So up goes the tarp. Just in time.

Executed decamping much better and was on the veritable Road by 7am. Wanting to get to Lees ferry by midday. 
The canyon opens up wide, so longer river side walking less in the water. 
Good progress was made and arrived at lees ferry by lunch.  Which was good. I see the predicted cold front coming in. Headed back to Vermillion cliffs for another great burger. 
This was an outstanding little adventure.


Morning Sun 



http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=3036348




Saturday 8 November 2014

Zion national park - the Narrows

The Narrows Trailhead
As they say in big bad USofA, I'm cowboy camping. Meaning under the stars. Although I'm under 4 layers. Cloudless sky, my nooky nicely protected from the wind.  . Under the canyon rock face. Camp site 9. It is loooverly. So far. Camping at zion with tarp on. Was very cold indeed. Icy wind. Blowing under the closed side. No wind in number 9. Did wake up at 3 ish. Added on the down jacket. No 9 got cold.

Cold!





This is everything I expect in the way of spectacular canyon walls. Didn't expect the water to be so freezing. Took a picture of a little Eddie,  on the side of the bank. It still had ice on the surface. That was 1 PM.  tried to stay out for as long as possible. Soon it be came impossible. So stomping through with gay abandonment. 

In fact I knew all that conquistadorsing in the Pungwe would find its use. Not that I was on my arse. Just navigating the river. What rocks to stand on which to avoid. Must have cross that River a hundred times.
It's magic how this River closes in. From wide open to a narrow cutting through the rock. I may have paid more attention in geography if this is what Mr Parker droned on about. 

Took me forever to pack up that morning. Packing the kitchen, the bedroom, the daily ritual, first time used a poop bag. Gotta pack it all out of the Narrows you know. After all last thing you want to see as you stomp through the river is a floater pass you by. Left to the last, put the wet and Icy cold socks, Neoprene socks and boots back on. Ouch.
Actually ended up hiring some you bueat fancy canyoning boots. Was a little circumspect, have to say they drained brilliantly and the traction on them rocks was reassuring. Hired from zion adventure Co. Same guys that gave me the ride to the top of the river, Chamberlain ranch, that d being the start point. With a cool guy, Cam, an accountant, corporate refugee. Now a canyoner. Now poor but happy!



Most of the second day was stomping through the river. Either the feet had become acclimatised or the water was warmer. Either way less numbness.
You knew you were coming to the end when you saw day hikers coming up.
And for the weight watchers; was happy to get the pack weight down 10.4kg. And that included the Neoprene bottoms and top. Had 2 litres of water. Figured don't need much. Readily available, after treating of course.
All in all a euphoric experience. Seriously awesome.

Friday 24 October 2014

K2K in a day

What can you say about K2K in a day
You could say the Narrow Neck walk is the longest 9.235kms and a few millimeters known to man
You can also say a 4 am wake up call is downright impolite
lets not talk about that retched decent down 'strong leg' more like 'weak knee'.
We're on a roll here..
How's the extra payload of water in your shoe's as you stagger up 'bad' dog!
Well its no good yellow pup is it?
Then again there is some serious pay back for your efforts
You can say the views were most awesome, Kanagawa walls, Goowong was it, serious eye candy.....
You gotta love the names along the way; rip rack roar & rumble or how about high & mighty. They must have been conjured up at the pink palace after several too many.
And you can most certainly say is all the more enjoyable to share it with people who have such a passion and love of the aussie bush.
To meet new people from all walks, with that common interest.
You gotta say, love 'Stralia, folk from the 4 corners; a tramper, rambler,  Marcheur, strapper, yuanzu, a few bushwalkers thrown in for good measure.  Meeting up on a for a  fine day of 'type 2' fun.
And some mighty fine leadership, good onya Francis and Alan.

Sunday 18 May 2014

Tuscan Road Trip - It was MAGIC

Road Trip - With some deviation following Google Maps 

Made the call to bypass the wonky tower in Pisa. heading to the smaller towns of Tuscany.

For some reason those Itia's build there towns up on the top of the hill. This is OK if you have a spiffing fiat 500 hire car to get up. Not so grand if you have to walk up after a tough day toiling in the fields below.  Then they put the mother of all Walls around them. We later learnt that the Itias don't like the Muslims. Seriously don't Like them. So you want to keep them out build a great big wall. of course the Tuscans also didn't the Romans nor in fact the next villages. Most probably because the wine and olive oil not to mention the pizza was better than the Local produce. Mind you from what we sampled it was all maaagic.

Running round walls is Magic 


Our First town, Volterra had a fine wall. And did l mention they also adorn the entrances with a fine assortment of statues, facades with the odd mural thrown in for good measure. And needless to say at the centre of all of this was a bloody great cathedral, Duomo. So these people were certainly kept busy with all this construction. You have to wonder who was left to make all this good Vino. What this town also did better thus any other was this alabaster carving. Even saw some guys making things. Today they've cool electric carvers at their disposal,not so in 530 BC I suspect.

Not Volterra Wall - Monteriggioni Wall I ran on. A fine example non the less


A town with a Wall and Tower as well
As we were in the area we popped into another lovely town; San Gimignano. Yeh try pronounce that the first time. Well our Siri like google Navigator certainly couldn't. San G. was great. They had the coolest fortification. The Gentry built great big towers. when the marauding Muslims did manage to scale the hill and the wall, as a last resort they all piled into the tower and stoned up the entrance. Cunning. Know doubt lobbing pizza scraps out the window to the disillusioned marauders. We just hada Gelato. The Gelato Shop said they were 2009 World Champions. So we had to try.

Worlds champs of past - how can you turn this down



Our first two night stop-over was 'Castello De Villa'. With Simone and family there to welcome us. Its a great way to meet to locals and try my new found language skill; Grazia, Chio, buongiorno, keh.... He has a horse in this years race around Siena old town square. Best thing was Sundowners on the patio overlooking Siena and the Tuscan hills. Enjoying the first bottle of Chianti Classico. supplied gratis by Simone. The first of several on the trip. Very cool. Both the setting and the vino.

Sundowners ala Chianti Classico over looking the Tuscan hills and Siena-Wall n All
A fine backdrop, a fine drop too











The Villa, tower and all, just so happened to be on the Via Frangecina walk aka pilgrimage, Same as the Compostella De Santiago, except different, this goes from Canterbury to Rome. 1900kms. Another one for the bucket list.
'I'll be back'















They like their Boer over here. If we were in India they'd have made it a sacred beast fortunately they like their food too much so just eat them. Pasta ala boer simple but superb. Also they had a delicatessen. So we provisioned up with cheeses and fine meat for tomorrow. 'Uno Salami per favore'. 'Uno more Salami per favore'. Uno more.. (hadn't learnt two or three yet).

Note remains of Boer ready for the pot (Top left)
Beaut run in the morning. stumble across the odd Castello as you do in this part of the world. More interestingly an old farm house only a few hundred years old, right on the trail. A quick lick of paint and we're in the BnB business.

Simone and Family - Garzie

Siena like is the provincial capital, also with a big wall. Both height, wide and length.  When do they decide to build the wall? It begs the question. Once they've decided on the size of the town? after the first attack? Instead of towers, these guys have a big Piazza. We understand this lot hated the Florentines more than the muslins can you believe. Many centuries tussling for supremacy. They lost. Cos of the Midichi clan. Italy's first mafia. They wrote the rule book. Mafiosi 101. Still taught in most Sicilian Uni's and New York I hear!

A Piazza to die for or have a horse race round
Loitering is the done thing in the Siena square. Except for one day in June or is it July, when they have a horse race around it. And this is not that big a square, not the size of your everyday horse race course, more like a velodrome size but with much tighter corners. Of course would never pass approval in Oz. But if it' s been going for hundred's of years so lets not stop the party now. Everyone is packed like sardines into the centre of the square which makes for a mass groping session for the Italian blokes.  We had boxes to tick though. As long as was it free, obviously. They stopped building around the 15 th century in the old town, meaning inside the wall. Only difference now they occupied by handbag and tee shirt shops, with odd Pizzeria or cafe. Certain members of the party did frequent the odd handbag shop. Somehow though the place retains its authenticity. It is magic. Headed for a picnic lunch. In the local University garden come veggie patch. Unlike the square which by lunch had a gazillion tommy tourists. the veggie patch was ours. Needless to say the veggies here have been gown since big Mick's day aka Michaelangelo. He had green fingers among other talents.
An admirer to Big Mick's Veggie patch - for sculpted tomatoes

With Siena boxes ticked we scurried back to the villa for a walk along Via Frangicina, followed by Sundowners. Don't know what they call sundowners in Italy, must be something Cos its ideal country for this very African tradition. Even Tracey was tucking into the Chianti Classico, abandoning the GnT tradition. As they say ' When in Rome'.

A Duomo to die for
Oh and on our little walk on the Via Frangicina, we bumped into some pilgrims. French I think. old geezers. Doing it a week at a time. Yes we must do that. 

We'd by-passed a little village, wall and all, thinking it not worthy. Crack-a-dawn run to and through it. they had a platform around sections of it. 7.50 euro for those coming after 8. Before 8, a stealth hurdle come straddle Gartis will do the trick. A very nice wall it was, so came back with Tracey for a breakfast. We were done just as the first bus arrived. Germans, Sandals with socks. 
Another early run on a Village wall - Note cloudy skies

Our new Tuscan friends came to say Arividechi. Wonderful folk. And we headed off to real Chianti territory.
This queue isn't moving - Like waiting for petrol in Zim

As we were now well into the cultural experience and before we hit the vino tasting. Stopped off at a sculpture park. Maybe if we'd known we'd be in for major sculpture overdose in Florence we'd gone straight to the vino. Well, turns out the fella that owns it was inspired by the Shona sculptures in the Kirstenbosch gardens. And his first sculpture Was a Zimbo artist. Tick that box.
Leap frog by Dominic Benhura - some else trying a leap frog

And the drive around the Chianti region was awesome, towns; Radda in Chianti, Castello di Volpaia, Chianti in Greve. Towns with walls also. Just with places for major wine tasting. However the amount of cyclists was staggering. Big discovery was this cycling event, the 'L'Eroica'. 200 odd Ks twist is you do it the traditional way; A bike pre1987, the old woolen cycling shirts and over tough unsealed roads. leave the helmet at home, with major food feast after. Gotta do that. Why did l leave the bike back in the UK. And we staggered our way to Florence. With designated driver and drinker being the same oke. Shame.

Likin' it 
Our Florence two night stay was in a Repunsel like tower, overlooking Florence. In an up market suburb. Lots of the homes had Repunsel like towers. Didn't see it but the Medichi's must have had the biggest tower after all this was their home town. Our little tower was magic. Sundowners at the top over looking the city. Headed up to Fiesole for dinner. A very Big hill up from Florence. Cyclists names; Sagan, Niboli chalked all over the road. And a cycling Monument half way up. Of later learnt this was the 2013 World Champ route. How good was that.
Through your lock of hair Repunsel

Started our Florence day with a run into town. My runs Early in the morning were just magic. You see these places from another perspective. with the odd Selfie with David replica thrown in. And Before its Invaded by thousand upon thousands of Tommy tourists. It also helps get a feel for the place for the day ahead. Thank you lads for getting me out on the roads in the mornings. Who would have thought, but we joined the queue for the Academia to see Big Mick's real David. what can one say, he was Mighty impressive, big feet, big hands, Six pack and small dick. Standing at the far end of the hall he towers over all the other works. And you don't need a tour guide, plenty of them to listen too. We overdosed on antiquities that day. Yet found a cool spot for picnic lunch, away from most of the masses. Next to a cathedral, mini Duomo, of course. Some nondescript 15th century number. One last time, a run along the River Arno, across the bridge with secret passage connecting castello one side of the river with castello two on the other. This was so the Royals of the time could go hither n tither Without having to see the Hoy paloy on the street below.
funny skinny fella down there
aaah a lovely view from the Repunsel tower

David from Ethiopia
On our way to our next stopover visited another village with a wall; Lucca.  These smart folk had the future in mind when they build their wall. it has a road on top. Romans built it that's why. So today you can ride around on it. Our very own Padre rode around that. Must have been on the four wheelers. Also the Lucca's hated the Pisan's. Cos it's a lot nicer than their town. These guys specialise in concerts, Opera's (on the wall of course). We arrived at siesta time. And they like their siestas. So pretty quite. We continued with our ritual of picnic lunch, ontop of said wall.
Lucca wall with Moat 
Enough of the cultural experience time to see what one of their adventurer play grounds had to offer. And were headed for the hills. well mountains really. To the Apuan Alps region, north Tuscany. Not that you can get too far away from the influence of Big Mick. It's here where he used to come to get his marble. And of course the best marble is on the top of the mountain, so lets chop the top off. 
Our Village in the mountains

More modest accommodation here. More a flat attached to the house of Christiano. Perched on the side of the mountain, near town, Altagnana. No walls to report. Cos no self respecting Muslim would trundle up here. And the stone of choice, Marble was put to better use, David Replica's. 
The Teacher and Student
Enjoying the result

Being the kinda guy I am, signed Tracey up to a cooking course for the afternoon. So what was I to do.... Well blow me down a mountain to climb  might just be the thing. 


A sign 

So not really knowing where to go, drove several Km's and several switchbacks to where the road crested the top and started walking up from there. Fortunately finding a trail that went up and up. with the cloud cover lifting opened up with el magnifico views out to the sea below.
A view


Back on the way home stopped off in a village in search of a beer, to celebrate my achievements of not getting lost and not rolling an ankle and not wanting to crash the cooking party. 
A Beer

A place with 'two old guys hanging out looked the spot. 'due birre per favore' and was issued beer and a loaf of bread (the best in the region, its all in the water), as you do. Both were good. 

Having cooked up a storm it needed to be eaten. So we had dinner with our hosts Christiano and wife. Afterwards he took us to the local village. There was a festival. They make a great big bonfire. All the villagers pitch to check it out. The local priest gives it a blessing and Woosh this thing goes up. The locals bring a plate and plenty of vino to sample. All very festive.
A bonfire why not
Borrowed Christiano's bike the next morning to attempt the climb. far too small, a real sckadonk of a bike I only got so far. This being one of the climbs in last years Giro. Knew l should have bought my bike. I think I said that everyday. 

Apartment with a view

Hitching a lift or a thumbs up??

Took a drive over the mountain pass. stopping at a few more quaint villages along the way; Garfagnana, the adventure capital of the region and back over the other side to Pietrasanta, the new age sculpture mecca. No sculpturers were to be found. it was Siesta time. 
Our trusted steed

The local for dinner looked good, we just couldn't understand the menu and the owner couldn't explain. So had Secondi first; Pizza, then Anti pasto; it wasnt called that, then prima. Who cares. It was all good. 
Picnic by the river as you do

Designer water bubbler, just when you need it. 

And crack a dawn flight Ryan Air with out it's dramas. Over 500k. 

We will be back for the 'L'Eroica'