Tuscan Road Trip - It was MAGIC

Road Trip - With some deviation following Google Maps 

Made the call to bypass the wonky tower in Pisa. heading to the smaller towns of Tuscany.

For some reason those Itia's build there towns up on the top of the hill. This is OK if you have a spiffing fiat 500 hire car to get up. Not so grand if you have to walk up after a tough day toiling in the fields below.  Then they put the mother of all Walls around them. We later learnt that the Itias don't like the Muslims. Seriously don't Like them. So you want to keep them out build a great big wall. of course the Tuscans also didn't the Romans nor in fact the next villages. Most probably because the wine and olive oil not to mention the pizza was better than the Local produce. Mind you from what we sampled it was all maaagic.

Running round walls is Magic 

Our First town, Volterra had a fine wall. And did l mention they also adorn the entrances with a fine assortment of statues, facades with the odd mural thrown in for good measure. And needless to say at the centre of all of this was a bloody great cathedral, Duomo. So these people were certainly kept busy with all this construction. You have to wonder who was left to make all this good Vino. What this town also did better thus any other was this alabaster carving. Even saw some guys making things. Today they've cool electric carvers at their disposal,not so in 530 BC I suspect.

Not Volterra Wall - Monteriggioni Wall I ran on. A fine example non the less

A town with a Wall and Tower as well

As we were in the area we popped into another lovely town; San Gimignano. Yeh try pronounce that the first time. Well our Siri like google Navigator certainly couldn't. San G. was great. They had the coolest fortification. The Gentry built great big towers. when the marauding Muslims did manage to scale the hill and the wall, as a last resort they all piled into the tower and stoned up the entrance. Cunning. Know doubt lobbing pizza scraps out the window to the disillusioned marauders. We just hada Gelato. The Gelato Shop said they were 2009 World Champions. So we had to try.

Worlds champs of past - how can you turn this down

Our first two night stop-over was 'Castello De Villa'. With Simone and family there to welcome us. Its a great way to meet to locals and try my new found language skill; Grazia, Chio, buongiorno, keh.... He has a horse in this years race around Siena old town square. Best thing was Sundowners on the patio overlooking Siena and the Tuscan hills. Enjoying the first bottle of Chianti Classico. supplied gratis by Simone. The first of several on the trip. Very cool. Both the setting and the vino.

Sundowners ala Chianti Classico over looking the Tuscan hills and Siena-Wall n All

A fine backdrop, a fine drop too

The Villa, tower and all, just so happened to be on the Via Frangecina walk aka pilgrimage, Same as the Compostella De Santiago, except different, this goes from Canterbury to Rome. 1900kms. Another one for the bucket list.

'I'll be back'

They like their Boer over here. If we were in India they'd have made it a sacred beast fortunately they like their food too much so just eat them. Pasta ala boer simple but superb. Also they had a delicatessen. So we provisioned up with cheeses and fine meat for tomorrow. 'Uno Salami per favore'. 'Uno more Salami per favore'. Uno more.. (hadn't learnt two or three yet).

Note remains of Boer ready for the pot (Top left)

Beaut run in the morning. stumble across the odd Castello as you do in this part of the world. More interestingly an old farm house only a few hundred years old, right on the trail. A quick lick of paint and we're in the BnB business.

Simone and Family - Garzie

Siena like is the provincial capital, also with a big wall. Both height, wide and length.  When do they decide to build the wall? It begs the question. Once they've decided on the size of the town? after the first attack? Instead of towers, these guys have a big Piazza. We understand this lot hated the Florentines more than the muslins can you believe. Many centuries tussling for supremacy. They lost. Cos of the Midichi clan. Italy's first mafia. They wrote the rule book. Mafiosi 101. Still taught in most Sicilian Uni's and New York I hear!

A Piazza to die for or have a horse race round

Loitering is the done thing in the Siena square. Except for one day in June or is it July, when they have a horse race around it. And this is not that big a square, not the size of your everyday horse race course, more like a velodrome size but with much tighter corners. Of course would never pass approval in Oz. But if it' s been going for hundred's of years so lets not stop the party now. Everyone is packed like sardines into the centre of the square which makes for a mass groping session for the Italian blokes.  We had boxes to tick though. As long as was it free, obviously. They stopped building around the 15 th century in the old town, meaning inside the wall. Only difference now they occupied by handbag and tee shirt shops, with odd Pizzeria or cafe. Certain members of the party did frequent the odd handbag shop. Somehow though the place retains its authenticity. It is magic. Headed for a picnic lunch. In the local University garden come veggie patch. Unlike the square which by lunch had a gazillion tommy tourists. the veggie patch was ours. Needless to say the veggies here have been gown since big Mick's day aka Michaelangelo. He had green fingers among other talents.

An admirer to Big Mick's Veggie patch - for sculpted tomatoes

With Siena boxes ticked we scurried back to the villa for a walk along Via Frangicina, followed by Sundowners. Don't know what they call sundowners in Italy, must be something Cos its ideal country for this very African tradition. Even Tracey was tucking into the Chianti Classico, abandoning the GnT tradition. As they say ' When in Rome'.

A Duomo to die for

Oh and on our little walk on the Via Frangicina, we bumped into some pilgrims. French I think. old geezers. Doing it a week at a time. Yes we must do that. 

We'd by-passed a little village, wall and all, thinking it not worthy. Crack-a-dawn run to and through it. they had a platform around sections of it. 7.50 euro for those coming after 8. Before 8, a stealth hurdle come straddle Gartis will do the trick. A very nice wall it was, so came back with Tracey for a breakfast. We were done just as the first bus arrived. Germans, Sandals with socks. 

Another early run on a Village wall - Note cloudy skies

Our new Tuscan friends came to say Arividechi. Wonderful folk. And we headed off to real Chianti territory.

This queue isn't moving - Like waiting for petrol in Zim

As we were now well into the cultural experience and before we hit the vino tasting. Stopped off at a sculpture park. Maybe if we'd known we'd be in for major sculpture overdose in Florence we'd gone straight to the vino. Well, turns out the fella that owns it was inspired by the Shona sculptures in the Kirstenbosch gardens. And his first sculpture Was a Zimbo artist. Tick that box.

Leap frog by Dominic Benhura - some else trying a leap frog

And the drive around the Chianti region was awesome, towns; Radda in Chianti, Castello di Volpaia, Chianti in Greve. Towns with walls also. Just with places for major wine tasting. However the amount of cyclists was staggering. Big discovery was this cycling event, the 'L'Eroica'. 200 odd Ks twist is you do it the traditional way; A bike pre1987, the old woolen cycling shirts and over tough unsealed roads. leave the helmet at home, with major food feast after. Gotta do that. Why did l leave the bike back in the UK. And we staggered our way to Florence. With designated driver and drinker being the same oke. Shame.

Likin' it 

Our Florence two night stay was in a Repunsel like tower, overlooking Florence. In an up market suburb. Lots of the homes had Repunsel like towers. Didn't see it but the Medichi's must have had the biggest tower after all this was their home town. Our little tower was magic. Sundowners at the top over looking the city. Headed up to Fiesole for dinner. A very Big hill up from Florence. Cyclists names; Sagan, Niboli chalked all over the road. And a cycling Monument half way up. Of later learnt this was the 2013 World Champ route. How good was that.

Through your lock of hair Repunsel

Started our Florence day with a run into town. My runs Early in the morning were just magic. You see these places from another perspective. with the odd Selfie with David replica thrown in. And Before its Invaded by thousand upon thousands of Tommy tourists. It also helps get a feel for the place for the day ahead. Thank you lads for getting me out on the roads in the mornings. Who would have thought, but we joined the queue for the Academia to see Big Mick's real David. what can one say, he was Mighty impressive, big feet, big hands, Six pack and small dick. Standing at the far end of the hall he towers over all the other works. And you don't need a tour guide, plenty of them to listen too. We overdosed on antiquities that day. Yet found a cool spot for picnic lunch, away from most of the masses. Next to a cathedral, mini Duomo, of course. Some nondescript 15th century number. One last time, a run along the River Arno, across the bridge with secret passage connecting castello one side of the river with castello two on the other. This was so the Royals of the time could go hither n tither Without having to see the Hoy paloy on the street below.

funny skinny fella down there

aaah a lovely view from the Repunsel tower

David from Ethiopia

On our way to our next stopover visited another village with a wall; Lucca.  These smart folk had the future in mind when they build their wall. it has a road on top. Romans built it that's why. So today you can ride around on it. Our very own Padre rode around that. Must have been on the four wheelers. Also the Lucca's hated the Pisan's. Cos it's a lot nicer than their town. These guys specialise in concerts, Opera's (on the wall of course). We arrived at siesta time. And they like their siestas. So pretty quite. We continued with our ritual of picnic lunch, ontop of said wall.

Lucca wall with Moat 

Enough of the cultural experience time to see what one of their adventurer play grounds had to offer. And were headed for the hills. well mountains really. To the Apuan Alps region, north Tuscany. Not that you can get too far away from the influence of Big Mick. It's here where he used to come to get his marble. And of course the best marble is on the top of the mountain, so lets chop the top off. 

Our Village in the mountains

More modest accommodation here. More a flat attached to the house of Christiano. Perched on the side of the mountain, near town, Altagnana. No walls to report. Cos no self respecting Muslim would trundle up here. And the stone of choice, Marble was put to better use, David Replica's. 

The Teacher and Student

Enjoying the result

Being the kinda guy I am, signed Tracey up to a cooking course for the afternoon. So what was I to do.... Well blow me down a mountain to climb  might just be the thing. 

A sign 

So not really knowing where to go, drove several Km's and several switchbacks to where the road crested the top and started walking up from there. Fortunately finding a trail that went up and up. with the cloud cover lifting opened up with el magnifico views out to the sea below.

A view

Back on the way home stopped off in a village in search of a beer, to celebrate my achievements of not getting lost and not rolling an ankle and not wanting to crash the cooking party. 

A Beer

A place with 'two old guys hanging out looked the spot. 'due birre per favore' and was issued beer and a loaf of bread (the best in the region, its all in the water), as you do. Both were good. 

Having cooked up a storm it needed to be eaten. So we had dinner with our hosts Christiano and wife. Afterwards he took us to the local village. There was a festival. They make a great big bonfire. All the villagers pitch to check it out. The local priest gives it a blessing and Woosh this thing goes up. The locals bring a plate and plenty of vino to sample. All very festive.

A bonfire why not

Borrowed Christiano's bike the next morning to attempt the climb. far too small, a real sckadonk of a bike I only got so far. This being one of the climbs in last years Giro. Knew l should have bought my bike. I think I said that everyday. 

Apartment with a view

Hitching a lift or a thumbs up??

Took a drive over the mountain pass. stopping at a few more quaint villages along the way; Garfagnana, the adventure capital of the region and back over the other side to Pietrasanta, the new age sculpture mecca. No sculpturers were to be found. it was Siesta time. 

Our trusted steed

The local for dinner looked good, we just couldn't understand the menu and the owner couldn't explain. So had Secondi first; Pizza, then Anti pasto; it wasnt called that, then prima. Who cares. It was all good. 

Picnic by the river as you do

Designer water bubbler, just when you need it. 

And crack a dawn flight Ryan Air with out it's dramas. Over 500k. 

We will be back for the 'L'Eroica'

Blue Mountains Bushwalk - Mt Solitary Kedumba Pass Circuit

The JFR adventure splinter were at it again. Even though somewhat depleted with other members doing it tough in places like Steamboat and Aspen CO, Shoul Bay even.

The call was sent out for a gentle stroll in the Blue Mountains for a few days. With Ivan and Clive taking up the challenge.

Happy Adventurers

The Gear shakedown is an important element in planning. Requiring checking gear. What we have and what we don't. Best done with sundowners, a cold amber nectar in hand. And accompanied by a very delectable plate of eats from Jackie. Who observing the goings-on suggested that this was more 'Broke back mountain' than blue mountains. Having not seen the movie, I was completely oblivious to the connotations. Not Ivan, being the movie and theater buff. Although legend has it his best sleeping is done there. It certainly put paid to any notion of taking the 2 man tent. That's settled he's taking the one man tent, I'm doing the hammock. With plenty of space between.

Departure at crack of dawn meant time for Beans and Chorizo breakfast at a bohemian cafe in Katoomba. This added a clip to our step and gas in the tank for the camp fire that evening. We did our gear Weigh-in at Scenic World; my pack came in at 12.5kg. Ivan 11kg. And that with the 2008 Shiraz decanted into plastic bottles, excellent. And we set off with much gusto. Much banter a flowing. Particularly about when was tea stop to tuck into Ivan's (read Jacky) Xmas cake.

Important Cargo

Route for the day. Down Faber steps. Right turn half way down the mountain onto Federal Pass, Walk around the wall. Take a detour to check out the Ruined Castle. Up mt Solitary. Along the top of mt Solitary.  Down to Kedumba river. Easy.

Day One

Food pretty important on the trail. Actually right up there. Along with, well in this case separate sleeping quarters, Broke Back Mountain, please. We had divi'd up responsibilities. Me dinner. Ivan breakfast and snacks. Snacks Like the Xmas cake, yum. Xmas cake with no guilt. Just cos we're camping doesn't mean we don't eat like kings right. So the cuisine of choice was native. African, with an Aboriginal twist. Ivan had regaled to me of his many years in the bush as a youth. Not sure St Ives in the 60s qualifies as bush, anyway.  Well the Witchetty Grub was the protein of choice for the aborigines. aka Mopane worms of Zim. Having just read Alex's bushcraft book he was now wise. All he had to do was look for 'sawdust' at the base of the wattle tree of which there were an abundance in the Blue Mountains. Apparently. (PS. I had a packet of dehydrated mince if this failed).

Witchetty Grub sighting..Not

So I was in charge of navigation. Ivan having failed the Great North Walk test. So Ivan; Aboriginal sites, flora, forna and of course bush-craft. Watch out all Witchitty grubs.

Trail Mix ala Ivan

Once you're down to the Federal Pass trail that follows a level path around the Blue Mountains you've dropped all the day tourists and you're on your own. It's a brilliant track. In fact in certain trail running quarters, the section of track closer to Echo point has been called 'the best run in the world'. Big call and worthy. Dumped the backpacks at the diversion leading up to the Ruined Castle. And the lego Block like Rock formations certainly looked something like a ruined Castle. Back down, our bags still where we'd left them and off to our main challenge for the Day. Mt Solitary. It was a slog and scramble up Solitary. The question being posed in certain quarters,  Was this 'Type Two Fun'. For those not in the know. T2 is like delayed gratification. It's not fun now,  maybe in a weeks time it will. Unlike T1 fun. its immediate,  just not a lasting memory. Get the drift.  We were rewarded with stunning views though. And with appropriate stops for more Xmas cake all was good.

You sure this is Mt Solitary?

 It had a narrow peak line, we traversed the length east west, with constantly changing vistas of the Blue Mountains to the North where we'd come from and South, and we weren't going there. We were going down. If it was a scramble coming up it was tumble downwards. A real ankle breaker.  Ivan flying down. Like a Down Hill Racer!

Navigator

Both trekkers were most excited to see the Kedumba river, like Livingstone discovering the long lost Zambezi. Sweet. And first order of the day was a swim, soak and 'spa' at the bottom of the rapids, well not really rapids. Anyway, mighty refreshing non the less.

Sleeping quarters now an imperative before it's too dark. Suitably distanced wattles by the river to string the Hammock and a sandbank 100 paces down stream for tent occupant. It should be pointed out that the Hammocker had decided not to bring the tarp, not that I had one. And after all we're talking Aussie summer,  there is no rain. So all is good.

Clive's Cocoon

Sundowners

Not too surprisingly, all Witchetty Grubs who value their lives, had covered up any give away 'saw dust' tracks, so our Grub hunter's knapsack remained empty for the full 20k. Not a Grub to be seen. He attempted to redeem himself by demonstrating his fire making skills. So there was no Indigenous to add to the African recipe, it would have added some crunch I reckon. No problem, the local Zimbo did his nation proud with the quality, texture of the Sadza (pup) cooked up. Make the relish with Knorrs Beef & Tomato soup and rehydrated mince, throw in some biltong pieces and this was a feast fit for kings. It was greeted with much approval by the Aussie contingent. Accompanied by the Shiraz what else can some happy and tired campers wish for. Well on thing the Hammock sleeper wished for was 'No Rain'.

Ivan likes Biltong

So as campfire stories tailed off and the magic 9pm sleep o'clock approached, bed was a beckoning. One last look up to confirm clear skies. The Doctor turned right to his abode. The Gordon Ramsey of camp cooking turned left. And all was bliss. Bliss as long as you had ear plugs to soften the deafening crescendo from the cicadas. They were unbelievable.  The hammock was good. The mossie net was good. Yet blow me down at 1am the rain started. Not hard, a gentle drizzle. Damn. And under the tree canopy I was a little sheltered. Just the water droplets were bigger falling off the leaves, like a thud on my mossie net. And now!. No Doubt Ivan was also contemplating my next move. Contemplating with great in-trepidation. Was there going to be a knock on his tent door. Like Suzie Quattro's 'You keep on knockin' but you cant come in' Imagine if word got back to Jackie. No more hiking adventures for him. And this rain wasn't stopping. I relented i had to get up. Some of my hiking clothes and shoes were out. So on goes the headlamp. I'm rustling around. Ivan hollers 'Who's that?'. Well let's think about that one for a moment!! Anyway. being the ingenious little camper, i cut up an emergency plastic poncho, laid it over the mossie net. Hopped back into Hammock, rammed in the ear plugs and was gone. Leaving Ivan tossing and a turning all night. Gotta love the bush.

We hadda refreshing morning dip to loosen the cobwebs. Breakfast; muesli from Ivan and powdered milk. Sorted out water ie boiled and nuked with pills. Faffed about a bit packing up and headed off. The start was a bit of a lung buster start. Straight up a saddle. about a 3k stretch until we hit the fire trail (sublime trail road). The boys were on a mission, moving at pace up. never ending up. Ivan kept 'half-wheeling' me. I'd get next to him, he'd move one step ahead. I'd try get up, he'd move ahead. Eventually he left me a forlorn figure. Even with my power poles. He was charging.

Cross training

We came across a Adventure Runner. Just to put us in our place. He was running/walking the 40k in one day what we'd taken 2. And it was midday when we met up. He had some trucking to go, in the heat of the day.

Eventually made it back to Federal Pass. At about the point Ivan ran out of gas. Bonked completely, so struggled gallantly to the top. A Coke hit helped. Chocolate Milkshake hit the spot even better.

In dire need of a sugar hit

A mandatory pitstop at daggy Pymble Pub for a pint when we made it back to Sydney to celebrate a most successful adventure.

Cheers

Another one for the team.

The long way up

Adventur-O-Meter

Fun	4
Adventure	4
Challenge	3
Skill	2