Buckskin Gulch & Paria Canyon

The Start

So they say this is a 3 to 6 day adventure. All depending on conditions. Aka, the water levels. So being the responsible adventurer, called the Ranger while still back in aus. Said they'd had record rain. But levels coming down, not good. Equals; cold and slow. And more wet suit attire. And most importantly, at one point there's a rock jam 3/4 way down the slot. Low water you climbs under said jam. High means over the top. And rope to get down. Took string to lower back pack and scramble doyen myself. Ended up going under. Glad didn't take a rope.

The big Rock Jam. Not such a challenge

High tailed it out of Vegas early morning. With all the faffing about, stopping off to get requisite permit and poop bags, instructions from Ranger etc. Only arrived at Vermillion cliffs motel, my overnighter, late. Not much else in Vermilion cliffs except the motel. But great food, fantastic burger and bigger range of beers than Vegas. Run by adventurers, so must

Good Arizona Lager 

be good. 

Met Liegh, from Wagga Wagga, would you believe. More knowledgeable than anyone I'd met. 'The best canyon hike in the US, the world even'. .. Big call. She was not alone on this point. Suppose that's why after all the research chose this one.  

  Logistics are; leave car at the end of the trail; Lees ferry where Paria river meets the Colorado. This is where the rafters start for the Grand canyon river rafting. Reminded me of Vic falls.  For me it was a 7am rendezvous and the 1:45 hr. shuttle with Betty, to the start. for a fee of course. I had to chuckle, she had lots of advice for this hike. Being seriously over weight and with walking stick. Doubt she'd ever done this.

The entrance to the Buckskin Gulch

Disposed of Betty and charged off with much gusto. Happiness abounded. With a 20k long Gulch (supposedly the longest in the world). there are no real camping spots in the Gulch and it could be suicide if it rained. This was much, much narrower than the Narrows. It was amazing how high up the rock walls wooded debris had lodged itself,  at some points maybe 10 metres up. Even more amazing was the way the muddy waters had sculpted sides of the canyon walls, remarkable. First mistake, didn't bring a decent camera. The mobile just hadn't done it justice, both in terms of capturing the textured walls and the colours created by the sunlight stealing through the top of the canyon.

And to the first mud pool. So donned on Neoprene type socks and leggings. And ventured forth. As I didn't have those you beaut Canyon shoes like in the Narrows, had bought some sandals as s poor substitute. Theory bring they would at least detain and be light to walk in. First test passed.   Just wet muddy for the rest of the day. 

This was fun. Like racing through a maze for big kids. Just went on and on. Deeper n higher walls. More water pools, just not as bad as everyone had made out. So cussed them. That meant an extra 2kg on my back for three days. 

Majestic Walls 

In fact, pack weighted 15.6kg, that was with 3.5 liters and 800 g of vino (considered essential).  With 4 days of food. Not to bad. 

The rock jam proved to be a non event. All a bit disappointing really. It did mean good progress was made. 
Finally arriving at the confluence at about 3. All up 26k. 
Things changed now. With the Paria flowing it was more like the Narrows. Constant river walking. The sandals didn't perform well at this. Getting bloody pebbles under your feet. Not that I was changing. That would have meant no dry shoes in camp. Now that would be very problematic. 
Pressed on hoping to get to 'big spring' where there was a camp site opposite the fresh water source. Didn't make it. By 5 and light fading. Came across a pretty decent looking spot. Little high up. It off the wind. And checked what was on the menu. Spaghetti pesto it was. Not before sundowners. And tucked into that wine. Well earned I thought. So much so smashed the lot. Less weight for tomorrow. 

As with the Narrows didn't bother with the tarp. Once again took forever to decamp. 

The second day, the canyon started to open up. Criss-crossed it constantly. Towering canyon walls. Was brilliant. By this stage was crossing that river with gazelle like grace. Well I thought so. 

Rather than talking to myself or out shooting waiting for the echo and other dump things, took to looking for features in the rock. A Buddha, saw Dory of Nemo fame, much hilarity. 

Dory -NO?

My Butt

Took a side trip up Wrather canyon up to Wrather Arch. nearly missed the canyon entrance. Hidden in shrubbery. More natural wonders and box ticked.

Wrather Arch - Great side trip. 

And by dusk found accommodation. Just as tucking in,  started to rain. So up goes the tarp. Just in time.

Executed decamping much better and was on the veritable Road by 7am. Wanting to get to Lees ferry by midday. 
The canyon opens up wide, so longer river side walking less in the water. 
Good progress was made and arrived at lees ferry by lunch.  Which was good. I see the predicted cold front coming in. Headed back to Vermillion cliffs for another great burger. 
This was an outstanding little adventure.

Morning Sun 

The Route

The Start

So they say this is a 3 to 6 day adventure. All depending on conditions. Aka, the water levels. So being the responsible adventurer, called the Ranger while still back in aus. Said they'd had record rain. But levels coming down, not good. Equals; cold and slow. And more wet suit attire. And most importantly, at one point there's a rock jam 3/4 way down the slot. Low water you climbs under said jam. High means over the top. And rope to get down. Took string to lower back pack and scramble doyen myself. Ended up going under. Glad didn't take a rope.

The big Rock Jam. Not such a challenge

High tailed it out of Vegas early morning. With all the faffing about, stopping off to get requisite permit and poop bags, instructions from Ranger etc. Only arrived at Vermillion cliffs motel, my overnighter, late. Not much else in Vermilion cliffs except the motel. But great food, fantastic burger and bigger range of beers than Vegas. Run by adventurers, so must

Good Arizona Lager 

be good. 

Met Liegh, from Wagga Wagga, would you believe. More knowledgeable than anyone I'd met. 'The best canyon hike in the US, the world even'. .. Big call. She was not alone on this point. Suppose that's why after all the research chose this one.  

  Logistics are; leave car at the end of the trail; Lees ferry where Paria river meets the Colorado. This is where the rafters start for the Grand canyon river rafting. Reminded me of Vic falls.  For me it was a 7am rendezvous and the 1:45 hr. shuttle with Betty, to the start. for a fee of course. I had to chuckle, she had lots of advice for this hike. Being seriously over weight and with walking stick. Doubt she'd ever done this.

The entrance to the Buckskin Gulch

Disposed of Betty and charged off with much gusto. Happiness abounded. With a 20k long Gulch (supposedly the longest in the world). there are no real camping spots in the Gulch and it could be suicide if it rained. This was much, much narrower than the Narrows. It was amazing how high up the rock walls wooded debris had lodged itself,  at some points maybe 10 metres up. Even more amazing was the way the muddy waters had sculpted sides of the canyon walls, remarkable. First mistake, didn't bring a decent camera. The mobile just hadn't done it justice, both in terms of capturing the textured walls and the colours created by the sunlight stealing through the top of the canyon.

And to the first mud pool. So donned on Neoprene type socks and leggings. And ventured forth. As I didn't have those you beaut Canyon shoes like in the Narrows, had bought some sandals as s poor substitute. Theory bring they would at least detain and be light to walk in. First test passed.   Just wet muddy for the rest of the day. 

This was fun. Like racing through a maze for big kids. Just went on and on. Deeper n higher walls. More water pools, just not as bad as everyone had made out. So cussed them. That meant an extra 2kg on my back for three days. 

Majestic Walls 

In fact, pack weighted 15.6kg, that was with 3.5 liters and 800 g of vino (considered essential).  With 4 days of food. Not to bad. 

The rock jam proved to be a non event. All a bit disappointing really. It did mean good progress was made. 
Finally arriving at the confluence at about 3. All up 26k. 
Things changed now. With the Paria flowing it was more like the Narrows. Constant river walking. The sandals didn't perform well at this. Getting bloody pebbles under your feet. Not that I was changing. That would have meant no dry shoes in camp. Now that would be very problematic. 
Pressed on hoping to get to 'big spring' where there was a camp site opposite the fresh water source. Didn't make it. By 5 and light fading. Came across a pretty decent looking spot. Little high up. It off the wind. And checked what was on the menu. Spaghetti pesto it was. Not before sundowners. And tucked into that wine. Well earned I thought. So much so smashed the lot. Less weight for tomorrow. 

As with the Narrows didn't bother with the tarp. Once again took forever to decamp. 

The second day, the canyon started to open up. Criss-crossed it constantly. Towering canyon walls. Was brilliant. By this stage was crossing that river with gazelle like grace. Well I thought so. 

Rather than talking to myself or out shooting waiting for the echo and other dump things, took to looking for features in the rock. A Buddha, saw Dory of Nemo fame, much hilarity. 

Dory -NO?

My Butt

Took a side trip up Wrather canyon up to Wrather Arch. nearly missed the canyon entrance. Hidden in shrubbery. More natural wonders and box ticked.

Wrather Arch - Great side trip. 

And by dusk found accommodation. Just as tucking in,  started to rain. So up goes the tarp. Just in time.

Executed decamping much better and was on the veritable Road by 7am. Wanting to get to Lees ferry by midday. 
The canyon opens up wide, so longer river side walking less in the water. 
Good progress was made and arrived at lees ferry by lunch.  Which was good. I see the predicted cold front coming in. Headed back to Vermillion cliffs for another great burger. 
This was an outstanding little adventure.

Morning Sun 

http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=3036348

Blue Mountains Bushwalk - Mt Solitary Kedumba Pass Circuit

The JFR adventure splinter were at it again. Even though somewhat depleted with other members doing it tough in places like Steamboat and Aspen CO, Shoul Bay even.

The call was sent out for a gentle stroll in the Blue Mountains for a few days. With Ivan and Clive taking up the challenge.

Happy Adventurers

The Gear shakedown is an important element in planning. Requiring checking gear. What we have and what we don't. Best done with sundowners, a cold amber nectar in hand. And accompanied by a very delectable plate of eats from Jackie. Who observing the goings-on suggested that this was more 'Broke back mountain' than blue mountains. Having not seen the movie, I was completely oblivious to the connotations. Not Ivan, being the movie and theater buff. Although legend has it his best sleeping is done there. It certainly put paid to any notion of taking the 2 man tent. That's settled he's taking the one man tent, I'm doing the hammock. With plenty of space between.

Departure at crack of dawn meant time for Beans and Chorizo breakfast at a bohemian cafe in Katoomba. This added a clip to our step and gas in the tank for the camp fire that evening. We did our gear Weigh-in at Scenic World; my pack came in at 12.5kg. Ivan 11kg. And that with the 2008 Shiraz decanted into plastic bottles, excellent. And we set off with much gusto. Much banter a flowing. Particularly about when was tea stop to tuck into Ivan's (read Jacky) Xmas cake.

Important Cargo

Route for the day. Down Faber steps. Right turn half way down the mountain onto Federal Pass, Walk around the wall. Take a detour to check out the Ruined Castle. Up mt Solitary. Along the top of mt Solitary.  Down to Kedumba river. Easy.

Day One

Food pretty important on the trail. Actually right up there. Along with, well in this case separate sleeping quarters, Broke Back Mountain, please. We had divi'd up responsibilities. Me dinner. Ivan breakfast and snacks. Snacks Like the Xmas cake, yum. Xmas cake with no guilt. Just cos we're camping doesn't mean we don't eat like kings right. So the cuisine of choice was native. African, with an Aboriginal twist. Ivan had regaled to me of his many years in the bush as a youth. Not sure St Ives in the 60s qualifies as bush, anyway.  Well the Witchetty Grub was the protein of choice for the aborigines. aka Mopane worms of Zim. Having just read Alex's bushcraft book he was now wise. All he had to do was look for 'sawdust' at the base of the wattle tree of which there were an abundance in the Blue Mountains. Apparently. (PS. I had a packet of dehydrated mince if this failed).

Witchetty Grub sighting..Not

So I was in charge of navigation. Ivan having failed the Great North Walk test. So Ivan; Aboriginal sites, flora, forna and of course bush-craft. Watch out all Witchitty grubs.

Trail Mix ala Ivan

Once you're down to the Federal Pass trail that follows a level path around the Blue Mountains you've dropped all the day tourists and you're on your own. It's a brilliant track. In fact in certain trail running quarters, the section of track closer to Echo point has been called 'the best run in the world'. Big call and worthy. Dumped the backpacks at the diversion leading up to the Ruined Castle. And the lego Block like Rock formations certainly looked something like a ruined Castle. Back down, our bags still where we'd left them and off to our main challenge for the Day. Mt Solitary. It was a slog and scramble up Solitary. The question being posed in certain quarters,  Was this 'Type Two Fun'. For those not in the know. T2 is like delayed gratification. It's not fun now,  maybe in a weeks time it will. Unlike T1 fun. its immediate,  just not a lasting memory. Get the drift.  We were rewarded with stunning views though. And with appropriate stops for more Xmas cake all was good.

You sure this is Mt Solitary?

 It had a narrow peak line, we traversed the length east west, with constantly changing vistas of the Blue Mountains to the North where we'd come from and South, and we weren't going there. We were going down. If it was a scramble coming up it was tumble downwards. A real ankle breaker.  Ivan flying down. Like a Down Hill Racer!

Navigator

Both trekkers were most excited to see the Kedumba river, like Livingstone discovering the long lost Zambezi. Sweet. And first order of the day was a swim, soak and 'spa' at the bottom of the rapids, well not really rapids. Anyway, mighty refreshing non the less.

Sleeping quarters now an imperative before it's too dark. Suitably distanced wattles by the river to string the Hammock and a sandbank 100 paces down stream for tent occupant. It should be pointed out that the Hammocker had decided not to bring the tarp, not that I had one. And after all we're talking Aussie summer,  there is no rain. So all is good.

Clive's Cocoon

Sundowners

Not too surprisingly, all Witchetty Grubs who value their lives, had covered up any give away 'saw dust' tracks, so our Grub hunter's knapsack remained empty for the full 20k. Not a Grub to be seen. He attempted to redeem himself by demonstrating his fire making skills. So there was no Indigenous to add to the African recipe, it would have added some crunch I reckon. No problem, the local Zimbo did his nation proud with the quality, texture of the Sadza (pup) cooked up. Make the relish with Knorrs Beef & Tomato soup and rehydrated mince, throw in some biltong pieces and this was a feast fit for kings. It was greeted with much approval by the Aussie contingent. Accompanied by the Shiraz what else can some happy and tired campers wish for. Well on thing the Hammock sleeper wished for was 'No Rain'.

Ivan likes Biltong

So as campfire stories tailed off and the magic 9pm sleep o'clock approached, bed was a beckoning. One last look up to confirm clear skies. The Doctor turned right to his abode. The Gordon Ramsey of camp cooking turned left. And all was bliss. Bliss as long as you had ear plugs to soften the deafening crescendo from the cicadas. They were unbelievable.  The hammock was good. The mossie net was good. Yet blow me down at 1am the rain started. Not hard, a gentle drizzle. Damn. And under the tree canopy I was a little sheltered. Just the water droplets were bigger falling off the leaves, like a thud on my mossie net. And now!. No Doubt Ivan was also contemplating my next move. Contemplating with great in-trepidation. Was there going to be a knock on his tent door. Like Suzie Quattro's 'You keep on knockin' but you cant come in' Imagine if word got back to Jackie. No more hiking adventures for him. And this rain wasn't stopping. I relented i had to get up. Some of my hiking clothes and shoes were out. So on goes the headlamp. I'm rustling around. Ivan hollers 'Who's that?'. Well let's think about that one for a moment!! Anyway. being the ingenious little camper, i cut up an emergency plastic poncho, laid it over the mossie net. Hopped back into Hammock, rammed in the ear plugs and was gone. Leaving Ivan tossing and a turning all night. Gotta love the bush.

We hadda refreshing morning dip to loosen the cobwebs. Breakfast; muesli from Ivan and powdered milk. Sorted out water ie boiled and nuked with pills. Faffed about a bit packing up and headed off. The start was a bit of a lung buster start. Straight up a saddle. about a 3k stretch until we hit the fire trail (sublime trail road). The boys were on a mission, moving at pace up. never ending up. Ivan kept 'half-wheeling' me. I'd get next to him, he'd move one step ahead. I'd try get up, he'd move ahead. Eventually he left me a forlorn figure. Even with my power poles. He was charging.

Cross training

We came across a Adventure Runner. Just to put us in our place. He was running/walking the 40k in one day what we'd taken 2. And it was midday when we met up. He had some trucking to go, in the heat of the day.

Eventually made it back to Federal Pass. At about the point Ivan ran out of gas. Bonked completely, so struggled gallantly to the top. A Coke hit helped. Chocolate Milkshake hit the spot even better.

In dire need of a sugar hit

A mandatory pitstop at daggy Pymble Pub for a pint when we made it back to Sydney to celebrate a most successful adventure.

Cheers

Another one for the team.

The long way up

Adventur-O-Meter

Fun	4
Adventure	4
Challenge	3
Skill	2